A City Transformed by Food
Belfast has undergone a remarkable food revolution over the past decade. What was once a city where dining options were limited to traditional pub grub and chain restaurants has become one of the most exciting food destinations in the British Isles. Independent restaurants, artisan producers, street food vendors and farmers' markets have transformed the city's culinary landscape, and today you can eat exceptionally well at almost every price point. Whether you are stopping in Belfast at the start of a hire car road trip or spending a few days exploring the capital, this guide covers the places and dishes you should not miss.
St George's Market
No Belfast food experience is complete without a visit to St George's Market, a beautiful Victorian covered market near the waterfront that has been trading since 1896. The market operates on three days each week: the Friday Variety Market, the Saturday City Food and Craft Market, and the Sunday Food, Craft and Antique Market. Saturday morning is the busiest and arguably the best day for food lovers. You will find stalls selling fresh fish from Portavogie and Kilkeel, locally baked soda bread and wheaten bread, artisan cheeses from County Down and Fermanagh, hot food from around the world and some of the best coffee in the city. Arrive hungry and graze your way through the aisles.
The Cathedral Quarter
The Cathedral Quarter is the beating heart of Belfast's independent food and drink scene. This compact neighbourhood of cobbled streets and restored warehouses is home to a concentration of excellent restaurants, cocktail bars and traditional pubs. You will find everything from modern Irish tasting menus to wood-fired pizza, Asian street food and locally sourced seafood. Many of the city's most acclaimed chefs have set up here, drawn by the creative energy of the quarter. After dinner, the area comes alive with live music spilling out of bars on Hill Street and Commercial Court. It is the kind of neighbourhood where an evening stroll turns into an unexpected adventure.
The Crown Liquor Saloon
Opposite the Europa Hotel on Great Victoria Street, the Crown Liquor Saloon is one of the most famous pubs in Ireland and a must-visit even if you are not a drinker. The interior is a masterpiece of Victorian pub design, with ornate tilework, carved wooden snugs, gas lamps and a mosaic floor. It is owned by the National Trust, making it possibly the only pub in the world with heritage protection. The food offering is traditional and hearty, with excellent stews, chowders and bar snacks. Grab one of the private snugs if you can and enjoy a pint in surroundings that have barely changed in over a century.
Victoria Square and the City Centre
For a more contemporary dining experience, the streets around Victoria Square shopping centre and Donegall Place offer a wide range of options. You will find everything from international chains to independent bistros and brunch spots. The area around Ormeau Avenue and the Linen Quarter has become particularly popular with food-focused independents serving everything from specialty coffee and sourdough to contemporary Irish small plates. If you are picking up a hire car in Belfast and need a quick but excellent meal before hitting the road, the city centre has plenty of options within walking distance of the main bus and rail stations.
Belfast Food Tours
If you want to get beneath the surface of the food scene, a guided food tour is an excellent way to spend a morning or afternoon. Several operators run walking tours that take you through St George's Market, the Cathedral Quarter and beyond, with tastings at each stop. You will meet the producers and chefs, hear the stories behind the dishes and discover places you might never find on your own. Tours typically last around three hours and include enough food to replace a full meal. Booking in advance is recommended, especially during the summer months and weekends.
Local Specialties You Must Try
Northern Ireland has a proud food tradition, and there are several dishes and ingredients that are unique to this part of the world. No visit is complete without sampling at least a few of them.
- Ulster Fry: The definitive Northern Irish breakfast. Similar to a full English but distinguished by the inclusion of soda bread and potato bread, both fried on the griddle. Most cafes and hotels serve it, and debates about the correct composition are fierce and ongoing.
- Soda Bread: A dense, slightly sweet bread made with buttermilk and bicarbonate of soda instead of yeast. It is served with almost every meal and is at its best fresh from a farmhouse kitchen or market stall.
- Yellowman: A crunchy, honeycomb-like toffee traditionally sold at the Ould Lammas Fair in Ballycastle each August. You can find it year-round in sweet shops and at St George's Market.
- Champ: Creamy mashed potato with chopped spring onions and a generous knob of butter. Simple, comforting and the perfect accompaniment to any meat dish.
- Fresh seafood: The coast delivers exceptional langoustines, mussels, oysters and fish. Look for Strangford Lough mussels and Portavogie prawns on restaurant menus.
Practical Tips for Eating in Belfast
- Booking: Popular restaurants in the Cathedral Quarter fill up quickly, especially on Friday and Saturday evenings. Book ahead where possible.
- Budget: You can eat very well in Belfast without spending a fortune. Market food, bakeries and lunch menus offer excellent value.
- Tipping: A ten percent tip is standard in sit-down restaurants. Service charge is sometimes added automatically for larger groups.
- Sunday: St George's Market on Sunday morning followed by a drive along the coast is a perfect start to a hire car road trip.
- Parking: If you have already picked up your hire car, there are several multi-storey car parks in the city centre. St George's Market has nearby parking on East Bridge Street.